should’ve taken care of this a long time ago. So I stuck in a 9V battery, put in the code and “CLICK”. All, lots of good comments here. -Hit it a few more times with mallet as you do this… (It’ll make you feel better). Good luck with that! Im still pissed at sentry, will replace the safe at sometime, none of this cheap crap though. I enter my code and press enter/pgrm button and it beeps at me once but does not display the lock symbol and shows a number 1….. Sentry is closed for the holiday apparently (labor 2012) and it’s only Wednesday and the holiday isn’t until next Monday, so I have to wait until next Tuesday to talk to them. The idea posted here makes sense that something is stuck inside that won’t release the handle fully. Self-Help How to Open a Sentry®Safe Touch Screen Lock Fire Safe. Sentry sent me a new Solenoid, but I can’t replace it without opening it. You can feel the crappy plastic parts give way as you try to open the handle. Anyone else have this type of problem with the err code one even though you’re using the right code? Seems to be working fine now, I’m hoping this new solenoid is an improved model. Now I’m going to follow the instructions above and lube the insides….thanks everyone. So my son purchased a Sentry safe today and I warned him about the sticking problem. I guess if this safe is ever involved in a fire it will open automatically as all the parts melt! I entered my MFG Code and tapped the safe below the lever and keypad area from left to right while pushing the lever up and down while the Proceed LED remained lit. It wouldn’t open either. I tried beating it about with my rubber mallet to no avail. I’m also re-assured knowing that if i ever lose the keys, i can potentially crack it open pretty quickly. (Then I can post another of those Youtube videos where a Sentry gets busted into in under a minute. Does anyone know where I can get a new nylon gear like the one pictured above, mine is stripped out? I have just experienced the same issue. Nothing is working im getting pi$$ed. Never had to order any parts for one so I don’t have any experience purchasing a new actuator. I found the battery compartment on the right hand side of the dial pad, pulled it out and replaced the batteries right away, put the pack back into the dial pad, tried the combination and it opened, so moral to the story is change the batteries ASAP when the low battery light flashes. Forget about a sawzall and trying to cut through anything. As for the metal plunger, I used some 220 sand paper to remove the larger corroded/bumpy areas. I examined the solenoid and found a small circuit board between the solenoid drive and the code pad. The safe is open. Looks like something perhaps designed for preventing moisture. Gives safe owners the ability to disable the primary lock, even if other people know the combination or access code. **** ATTENTION ****** If you have an electronic keypad AND a manual key lock: The manual key lock button must be extended – e.g., unlocked – for the safe to work in electronic mode only. After waiting and then being told to call the techs they informed me they no longer carry the key pad and I should call a locksmith to break into my safe!!! I put in some *older* Everyreadys, and “Clink!” goes the solenoid! For the last couple of years, banging around the handle got the solenoid to engage. Hate this thing. Thanks again for the detailed information. Someone mentioned 5 metal prongs…well, mine doesn’t have those. As well, AND THANKS AGAIN TO YOUR POSTED PICTURE, I know that I can pop off the keypad, stick in a piece of angle metal as long as my index finger, and actuate the solenoid myself. I USED A BUTTER KNIFE. THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THAT I AM DOING THIS, BUT I THOUGHT I HAD TO SHARE THIS INFORMATION TO EVERYONE. Did the whole thing of rubber mallet et al and then called support. Left the door open and worked the digital combination many times for a couple of days and it has seemed to solve the problem so far. I tried everything with mine, every suggestion and everything i thought would work. Thank you for the suggestion of the mallet, but since I am not well equipped in the house I used a hammer and tapped lightly. My husband tried the rubber mallet and that didn’t work either, so he went at it with a hammer and crowbar. The directions included were about an 80% solution. What year is this one, it only take 1, 12 V battery & a key, they had lost the key years ago & it’s very heavy I say 4 foot by 4 foot, did not pay much at all, what is my best choices, call a lock Smith or try a new battery & get a notary to get the ownership in my name? 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